FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY DEVELOPMENT IN THE FIRST HALF OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY: COMPOSITIONAL AND STYLISTIC TECHNIQUES, THE INTERACTION BETWEEN ART AND ADVERTISING

Abstract

The aim of the article is to analyse the work of the leading fashion photography masters of the first half of the XX century, to identify the author's artistic techniques and trends in the development of this type of design innovations promotion. Methodology: biographical, historical and chronological methods, as well as methods of analysis, synthesis, figurative, stylistic and formal analysis of photo art works have been used in the study. Summary. The work of the fashion photography leading masters of the first half of the XX century, as well as their author's compositional and stylistic techniques have been analysed in the article. The study revealed that fashion photography has been actively developing and gradually dominating fashion illustration since the 1920s due to the growing popularity of the printed media, in particular, Vogue and Harper's Bazaar magazines. The study clarifies the peculiarities of the mutual influence of photography, fashion and advertising, stipulated by the fact that the fashion photography art has been mastered mainly by artists with an educational qualification in painting. The fine art and stage photography expressive means borrowing (Edward Steichen), the surrealist techniques and elements usage (collages, imitation of layering, distortion effects), the art and fashion synthesis, the combination of clothing and accessories with artistic elements (Man Ray), accessories and poses of models with artistic elements and props (Man Ray), satisfaction of the immediate expectations of both the object and the viewer regarding the relevant context, the images volumes manipulation (Cecil Beaton), natural light and artificial sources combination, attention to detail, experiments with various photographic techniques such as platinum-palladium printing (Irving Penn), liberation of the creative process of shooting from studio settings and mannequin-like poses, the natural sunlight and outdoor shooting qualities demonstration (Louise Dahl-Wolf) have been considered as the most striking author's artistic, compositional and stylistic techniques of the leading masters of fashion photography of the first half of the XX century. The scientific novelty. The works of leading masters of photography in the global fashion industry have been analysed for the first time, their author's compositional and stylistic techniques have been identified, and the features of the relation of fashion photography with art and advertising have been highlighted. Practical significance. The research materials can be used for the content formation of textbooks, lecture synopsis, lectures on the design history and art of photography, and for the clothing models` photoshoot practice.