NANTONG BLUE CALICO: ARTISTIC FEATURES AND PRINCIPLES OF USE IN MODERN FASHION DESIGN
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.32782/2415-8151.2025.35.50Keywords:
clothing design, design tools, Nantong blue calico, intangible cultural heritage, symbolic meaning, colour, dyeing technologiesAbstract
Purpose of the article is to analyze the artistic characteristics of Nantong blue calico in the historical context, as well as to identify the peculiarities of its application in the design of modern clothing . Methodology: the study used a historical and chronological method, methods of systematisation and semantic analysis of historical samples of Nantong blue calico, methods of figurative stylistic and formal analysis of costume samples. Results. The main artistic features of blue calico in the historical context are analysed: the symbolic meaning of images; colouristics of drawings on the canvas of blue calico; peculiarities of modelling characteristics of point and linear patterns; characteristics of fabric and production of blue calico; types of patterns, among which we distinguish vegetable and floral, animalistic, geometric, figurative; compositions with characters. The possibilities of innovative application of characteristic elements of Nantun blue calico in modern clothing design are analysed. Among the innovative approaches is the reconstruction of the original blue calico fabric with the use of modern textile technologies and processes, which allows to preserve the original features of blue calico and give it new textures and properties. It is also possible to use other fabrics to recreate some of the characteristic features of Nantung blue calico, including imitating the patterns and texture of blue calico through printing, embossing and other processes. Scientific novelty. For the first time in art history research, the historical phenomenon of Nantong blue calico as an object of China's intangible cultural heritage is analysed. The models of the spring-summer 2023 collection by designer Lin Qi, presented during the Beijing Fashion Week, show the peculiarities of using blue calico in the desig n of contemporary clothing. The practical relevance is due to the need to preserve the unique style of Nantong blue calico and meet the needs of modern clothing production, increasing production efficiency and reducing costs.
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