VISUAL AND PLASTIC CODE OF UNIVERSITY IDENTITY: ACADEMIC GOWN. A COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS

Authors

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.32782/2415-8151.2025.37.37

Keywords:

academic dress, gown, ornament, coloristics, visual identity, design, university tradition, brand, decolonial reinterpretation, cultural code, cultural unification, costume

Abstract

Purpose. The aim of this study is to explore the potential of the Ukrainian academic gown as a component of the visual identity of higher education institutions and to identify ways of reinterpreting and adapting it to contemporary cultural and value paradigms. This is achieved through a comparative analysis of academic dress (gowns) in countries that have experienced the impact of totalitarian and colonial regimes – namely, Ukraine and South Africa. Methodology. The research is based on a comparative analysis of the visual codes embedded in the academic dress of Ukrainian and South African higher education institutions. The study employs methods of visual analysis and color symbolism interpretation, as well as cultural and semiotic approaches to examining academic regalia as an element of institutional identity. Results. The study reveals that academic regalia in South African universities, while rooted in European tradition, have been adapted to local cultural codes. In the South African context, color carries significant semantic weight, closely tied to ethnic, historical, and social identity. Ukrainian universities, on the other hand, continue to adopt and replicate a European visual model of the academic gown that has remained largely unchanged since the totalitarian period. This tradition underscores the need to reconsider the symbolic function of academic dress as a part of the visual identity of higher education institutions. In this context, the incorporation of national symbols, traditional colors, and ornamental motifs becomes especially important in shaping a distinctive visual identity for Ukrainian academia and in emphasizing its cultural uniqueness. Scientific novelty. For the first time in Ukrainian academic discourse, a comparative analysis of academic dress is conducted within the framework of post-totalitarian reinterpretation of the visual culture of higher education. The study introduces the concept of ornamental and coloristic thinking as a tool for visually constructing institutional and national identity within Ukrainian higher education. Practical relevance. The findings can serve as both a theoretical and practical foundation for the design or redesign of academic dress for Ukrainian higher education institutions. This process should incorporate principles of national identity, cultural heritage, academic representation, and brand communication. The integration of ornamental and color codes relevant to Ukrainian visual traditions will enhance the public visibility and symbolic legitimacy of academic institutions at both national and international levels.

References

Академічне вбрання для випускників в Україні. Академсервіс : вебсайт. URL: https://akademservis.ua/en (дата звернення: 10.05.2025).

Історія костюма: культурна спадщина народів світу : навчальний посібник / Т.М. Головенко та ін. Луцьк ; Мукачево : ЛНТУ ; МДУ, 2023. 252 с.

Лагода О.М. Дизайн костюма. Практики репрезентацій : монографія. Черкаси : видавець О.М. Третяков, 2018. 296 с.

Михайлова Р.Д., Федорова Є.В. Про зміст і співвідношення понять «образ» та «імідж». Вісник Київського національного університету культури і мистецтв. Серія «Мистецтвознавство». 2016. Вип. 35. С. 206–217. DOI: 10.31866/2410-1176.35.2016.158260.

Сидорчук Н.Г. Університетські традиції як підґрунтя реалізації виховання студентської молоді. Інноваційні підходи до виховання студентської молоді у ВНЗ : матеріали Міжнародної науково-практичної конференції, м. Житомир, 22–23 травня 2014 р. / за ред. О.А. Дубасенюк, В.А. Ковальчук. Житомир : Вид-во ЖДУ ім. І. Франка, 2014. С. 178–186.

Boven D.T. American Universities’ Departure from the Academic Costume Code. Transactions of the Burgon Society. 2009. Vol. 9. DOI: 10.4148/2475-7799.1075.

Free State. Central University of Technology. URL: https://www.cut.ac.za/ (дата звернення: 10.05.2025).

Christianson B. Reflections on Designing the Academic Dress of the University of Hertfordshire. Transactions of the Burgon Society. 2021. Vol. 20. DOI: 10.4148/2475-7799.1183.

Contemporary African Design: Colour & Pattern Insights. Eva Sonaike Blog. URL: https://evasonaike.com/blogs/evasonaikeblog/exploringsymbolism-colours-in-african-textiles-and-cultures (дата звернення: 10.05.2025).

Cooper J.C. Reforms to Scottish Academical Dress during the 1860s. Transactions of the Burgon Society. 2020. Vol. 19. DOI: 10.4148/2475-7799.1168.

Cox N. Academical Dress in New Zealand. Transactions of the Burgon Society. 2001. Vol. 1. DOI: 10.4148/2475-7799.1003.

Crawford K. The Cutting Edge of Academe: Trends in the Manufacture of Academical Dress. Transactions of the Burgon Society. 2008. Vol. 8. DOI: 10.4148/2475-7799.1062.

Fleming C. The Academical Dress of the University of Stirling, 1967–2006. Transactions of the Burgon Society. 2006. Vol. 6. DOI: 10.4148/2475-7799.1050.

Hargreaves-Mawdsley W.N. A history of academical dress in Europe until the end of the Eighteenth Century. Oxford : Clarendon Press, 1963. 235 p.

Ka Shing, Charles Ko. The Development of Academic Dress in China. Transactions of the Burgon Society. 2014. Vol. 14. DOI: 10.4148/2475-7799.1119.

Keenan O.J. How Can Academical Dress Survive in the Third Millennium? Transactions of the Burgon Society. 2010. Vol. 10. DOI: 10.4148/2475-7799.1086.

Kerr A. The Oxford Convocation Habit: An Endangered Species of Academic Dress. Transactions of the Burgon Society. 2023. Vol. 22. DOI: 10.4148/2475-7799.1213.

Ljutenko L., Tokar M., Kutateladze V. Academic gown as a visual symbol of uniqueness and identity of a higher education institution. The Future of Science, Technology and Economy. Collection of Scientific : papers with proceedings of the 2nd International Scientific and Practical Conference, International Scientific Unity, June 11–13, 2025. Sofia, Bulgaria, 2025. P. 69–78. DOI: 10.70286/isu-11.06.2025.

Motifs and Ornamentations: Inspirations Behind the Colors of African Traditional Architecture. ArchDaily. URL: https://www.archdaily.com/ 1005269/motifs-andornamentations-inspirations-behind-the-colors-of-africatraditional-architecture (дата звернення: 10.05.2025).

North A.J.P. The Development of the Academic Dress of the University of Oxford 1920–2012. Transactions of the Burgon Society. 2014. Vol. 13. DOI: 10.4148/2475-7799.1111.

Rangiwai B. Kākahu and gown: The incorporation of kākahu into academical dress in Aotearoa New Zealand. Te Kaharoa. 2019. Vol. 12 (1). DOI: 10.24135/tekaharoa.v12i1.246.

Rangiwai B. Wānanga habits: The Academical Dress of Te Wānanga o Aotearoa – notes and images. Te Kaharoa. 2019. Vol. 12 (1). DOI: 10.24135/tekaharoa.v12i1.268.

Rowe N. The Academical Dress of Finland: A Contemporary (Re)Introduction. Transactions of the Burgon Society. 2023. Vol. 22. DOI: 10.4148/2475-7799.1215.

Teather E. The History of Undergraduate Academical Dress in Britain’s Modern Universities since 1880. Transactions of the Burgon Society. 2024. Vol. 23. DOI: 10.4148/2475-7799.1226.

Testar J.T. The Introduction and Contemporary Practice of Academical Dress in Japan. Transactions of the Burgon Society. 2014. Vol. 14. DOI: 10.4148/2475-7799.1118.

Wearden S. How Academic Dress Is Mobilized in Degree Ceremonies and to What Effect. Transactions of the Burgon Society. 2015. Vol. 15. DOI: 10.4148/2475-7799.1131.

Wolgast S.L. King’s Crowns: The History of Academic Dress at King’s College and Columbia University. Transactions of the Burgon Society. 2009. Vol. 9. DOI: 10.4148/2475-7799.1073.

Published

2025-10-30

How to Cite

Liutenko, L., & Tokar, M. (2025). VISUAL AND PLASTIC CODE OF UNIVERSITY IDENTITY: ACADEMIC GOWN. A COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS. Theory and Practice of Design, (37), 366–375. https://doi.org/10.32782/2415-8151.2025.37.37

Issue

Section

CULTURE AND ART