THE ROLE OF WOMEN IN THE TRANSFORMATION OF THE DECORATIVE AND APPLIED ARTS IN GREAT BRITAIN IN THE 19TH CENTURY

Abstract

The English Catholic revival and the awakening of interest in medieval Gothic art gave rise to the development of textile and embroidery art in the nineteenth century in Great Britain. The gradual commercialization of needlework and the Industrial Revolution, in turn, encouraged a departure from the artist’s craftsmanship. Thanks to the availability of “Berlin work” and embroidery patterns, embroidery entered every home and provided women with opportunities for self-expression, moral education, interior and clothing decoration. This contributed to the feminization of needlework in a patriarchal society. At the same time, women were able to use needlework as a means of self-expression, which was manifested in the early feminist movements. Goal. To analyze the transformational phenomena in the art of Great Britain, which led to the formation of the art of artistic embroidery as such, which played an important role in the process of overcoming cultural, social, political and gender imbalance. Methodology. Various methods and principles of scientific research were used, including: the principle of historicism, objectivity; historical, comparative, narrative methods, analysis. Results. The first stage of women’s socialization and self-expression was the creation of economic opportunities through the use of traditional needlework skills. Needlework societies and women’s schools helped a large number of women who were forced to work. Women realized that they can be self-sufficient, can take care of themselves and support other women. Scientific novelty. For the first time in Ukrainian art history, the article highlights the mutual influence of the work of woman artists who worked in the field of textiles and embroidery and their civic position, emancipation, and achievements in the struggle for rights in society. Practical significance. The materials of the work can be used to develop lectures on the history of arts and crafts, women’s art, for elective classes, and in practical work. The results obtained can also be used in further scientific development of the topic under study and related topics.